The Shikoku Henro is a renowned pilgrimage route on Shikoku – the smallest of Japan's four main islands. It is around 1,200 km long, circling the entire island and leads through all four prefectures of Shikoku and 88 Buddhist temples. ‘Henro’ refers to the pilgrimage as well as the actual pilgrims. The term “O-Henro” is often used to address them respectfully.
Those who make the pilgrimage in the traditional way do so on foot. Alternatively, the journey can also be made by car, motorbike or bicycle. Guided bus tours and travel by public transport are also possible. The Shikoku Henro usually begins at the first temple Ryōzenji and runs clockwise towards the 88th temple Ōkuboji. The Start and finish are not fixed, so you can begin and end your pilgrimage at any temple.
You may also wish to end your pilgrimage by returning to the first temple from the 88th temple. Considering that the Walking Henros have three different routes to choose from to complete the loop. The shortest route is around 40 km long, the longest around 45 km. The pilgrimage can either be completed in a single tour or taken as separate trips. Many Japanese opt for an intermittent tour, walking only at weekends or on holiday as they have limited annual leave and many locals cannot take extended periods of time off work. They continue their journey where they last left off. Some walking pilgrims take years to complete the Henro.
There are stone pillars, stickers or signs that can be found anywhere on trees, posts or walls. Some markings are difficult to recognise because they are very small, overgrown or faded by the sun. In my experience, everyone gets lost at least once.
You will typically stay in family-run bed & breakfasts and traditional inns known as minshuku and ryokan, which offer single rooms. Check-in times usually vary between 2 pm and 4 pm, while breakfast is usually served around 6.30 am and dinner around 6 pm. The cost of accommodation during my trip ranged from 2,500 yen (without meals) to 9,000 yen (including meals).
Tip: The accommodation may only have a shared bathroom and a washing machine, there may not be a tumble dryer. The first-come-first-serve principle applies, so I recommend arriving as early as possible. Many accommodations expect you to arrive by 5 pm at the latest.
Pilgrimages can be both physically and mentally demanding. Some pilgrims who have already successfully completed the 'Camino de Santiago' in Spain have had to abandon their Henro pilgrimage on foot because they underestimated the journey.
Another challenge can be the weather. When I made the pilgrimage in autumn 2023, it was still hot and very humid like in summer, which made the effort even more difficult.
The condition of the paths is also an important factor. Around 80 % of the entire route are paved roads and you often walk along the roadside. Some nature trails are dangerous and difficult to walk on. There is an increased risk of slipping on all paths when wet.
There are only a few places to stay overnight in rural areas, which can quickly become fully booked, especially at weekends and on public holidays. During off season some accommodation may be temporarily closed, which makes planning more difficult.
Encounters with dangerous animals such as bears, wild boars, giant hornets and poisonous snakes need to be considered.
My advice is to pack as light as possible. Good preparation is helpful both before and during the pilgrimage, and accommodation in particular should be booked at least two days in advance.
In Japan I was able to withdraw money with my credit card at all ATMs at post offices and in convenience stores. However, this does not work in Japanese banks.
The pilgrimage is possible without being able to speak Japanese. However, it is advisable to know a few basic phrases and words, as little or no English is spoken. Translation apps can make communication easier. In addition, the two syllabic scripts Hiragana and Katakana can be learnt quickly, getting to grips with this will only take a few days.
Osamefudas are paper name slips that can be purchased at each temple and are labelled with your name, address (city and country are sufficient) and the current date. You leave two Osamefudas in each temple as proof of your visit. If you receive a name slip as a gift from a person, you also give this person your labelled Osamefuda in return.
If you wear the white pilgrim jacket called ‘hakui’ (白衣), you will be recognised as a Henro. On Shikoku, you may therefore receive small gifts, so-called ‘Osettais’, from the locals. These can be drinks, food, money or even small services such as free laundry or home-made handicrafts.
It is important that you sincerely thank the other person for such gifts and give them an Osamefuda out of politeness. But never expect an Osettai and never refuse it. The only exception: You may refuse an Osettai if you are offered a lift, but you intend to walk or cycle the entire distance.
Those who complete the entire pilgrimage route on foot or by bike without using any other means of transport will receive a certificate from the Maeyama Ohenro Kōryū Salon. The centre is located between temples 87 and 88 and I was honoured as a ‘Henro Ambassador’ myself.
When I look back, it is above all the people who remain vivid in my memory. My trip was characterised by many kind, inspiring encounters and conversations with locals and other pilgrims. The Japanese, and especially the people of Shikoku, are very friendly and helpful. The many Osettais I received and the many words of encouragement such as ‘Ki o tsukete=take care of yourself’ or ‘Ganbatte kudasai=good luck, please do your best’ often gave me the strength and courage to carry on. I would like to take this opportunity to express my heartfelt thanks to all the people I met on this unique, life-changing pilgrimage.
Thank you, ありがとうございました!
